A Summit and a Half

North Route South Sister

Alder Creek.

            My ultimate destination for the night was Alder Creek, 8 miles away.  That would leave me a hike of a bit under 12 miles back to the car the next day, both fairly easy hikes.  I left my campsite with 1.5 quarts of water, planning to filter water and fill my canteens at the first creek crossing, 1.4 miles below Camp Lake.  When I reached that creek, however, to my dismay it was a churning cauldron of rock powder and just plain dirt – as much mud as water.  By then I was down to ¾ quart; I drank part of it, and set off on down to Soap Creek, where the Camp Lake trail connects with the main trail.  I had camped at Soap Creek years ago, and I was fairly confident it would not be full of mud.  It was good water, although rather lower than I expected.  I drank my fill and filled two of my canteens, then set out, at a little after 2:15, for my planned camp site at Alder Creek. 

            By this time, I noticed that the sunlight had turned a dark yellowish tan; the smoke from the Oakridge fire was so thick that I could scarcely see Middle and North sisters, less than three miles distant.  I decided I was glad to be headed out.  My own climbs had been solitary, but several groups of climbers arrived at Camp Creek while I was there, and I met two more groups hiking in as I was leaving.  I figured yesterday’s crew were probably mostly on top by now, in the thickest part of the smoke, and I felt rather sorry for them.

            When I reached the Alder Creek ford, four miles past Soap Creek, I was hit with a very unpleasant surprise.  As I had expected, there were two excellent potential camp sites.  However, the place was mis-named on both accounts:  No alders, and no creek.  I easily forded the non-existent water, sat down to drink the last third of my first quart of water and rest for a couple of minutes, then did the only thing I could do.  Making a dry camp with just one quart of water was unthinkable:  I had to go on to Matthew Lake, four miles farther on.  I had never seen Matthew Lakes, so I did not know if they were real lakes or just marshy mud-holes:  If Alder Creek had no water, it seemed possible that Matthew Lakes would be equally unsatisfactory.  That would leave only one option:  Hike the 3.5 miles from Matthew Lakes to the McKenzie Highway, and try to hitch a ride back to my car.  (Memo to self:  in late summer call the forest service to ask about dry creeks!)

            Either way, it was clear that the earlier I reached Matthew Lakes the better.  It was already 4:00, and by 7:30 it would be dark.  If I found water, I wanted a bit of time to make camp, filter water, and relax before having dinner; if not, I wanted time to make it most of the way to the highway before dark.  So I lengthened and speeded my stride, knowing that I would pay with a blister on at least one toe.  I was pleased with my feet – they complained a bit about it, but mostly went along just fine.  Other than my feet, my saddle-sore shoulders, and the fact that I was breathing soot, it was a rather enjoyable walk.  I was pleasantly surprised when I reached the Scott Pass trail junction after only 35 minutes of vigorous walking.  After another brief stop for water, I headed on up the trail, which climbs several hundred feet to the pass just above the lakes.  That slowed me down a bit, but I still reached South Matthew Lake by 5:30.  There I was delighted to see both of my needs –accessible water and lots of flat places for my sleeping pad. 

            I also encountered two young men who are through hiking the entire Pacific Crest Trail, from Mexico to Canada.  I hope the weather holds and they don’t get caught by a blizzard in the North Cascades.

            I made a nice camp, although the smoke bothered me much of the night, and obscured all but the brightest stars.  The hike out the next morning, 7.5 miles back to the trailhead, was uneventful and thoroughly enjoyable.